If we want to obtain armies that are consistent in terms of weaponry and protection, we need to take the time to gather and study historical and archaeological data. We have drawn some conclusions, which are presented here. We have also had to make certain compromises between historicity and security.
The proportion of certain weapons and protection is limited to reflect the reality of the battlefield. An average is given for groups of five or ten fighters. Limitations on the number of weapons and protections apply to all fighters registered in the same group. It's up to each of us to respect this in order to have coherent armies.
During combat, a weapon must be held or carried in a realistic manner:
If, at any point during the fight, a fighter fails to follow this rule – for example, by holding their weapon by the blade – they must drop it. They may then pick it up again to continue fighting, provided they hold it correctly.
Apart from the tape on the gun check, any tape that is not there to secure a blunt must not be visible.
Any visible tape must be grey/silver, black or brown, exactly as shown in the photo opposite (and only this shade of brown).
With the exception of the tape applied during the weapons check. However, only the marking for the current year must be visible; previous markings must be removed or completely covered by the current one.
Quick and easy to make, easy to use. Whether thrown, wielded one-handed or two-handed, the spear, often referred to as the poor man's weapon, is nonetheless the queen of the battlefield.
The spears should look as realistic as possible, not like cotton buds.
The total weight of the spear depends on its length:
140cm : 600g min.
141cm to 160cm : 700g min.
161cm to 180cm : 800g min.
181cm to 200cm : 900g min.
As soon as you go beyond a certain length, the ratio with the next higher level applies (e.g. 183cm => 900g).
The ballast must be placed as close as possible to the blunt, no additional counterweight is allowed!
Only a blunted heel may be used to deliver blows and only commercial blunts are authorised.
Rubber blunts must be taped (black, grey or silver tape) to the shaft (see photos) to avoid any risk of being ripped off during fights.
In order to offer a different combat experience, hast weapons are sometimes not allowed on the battlefield.
We therefore recommend that you bring a valid one-handed weapon so that you can take part in these specific battles.
For 2-handed spearmen, during large battles and certain other activities, a shield on the back or side is compulsory.
Warning! A shield carried in front of you is prohibited, as is removing it voluntarily during battle (see shield rules).
From the Herja 2022 edition onwards, spear blunts that are too soft will no longer pass the weapon check! These include the synthetic Cold steel spearheads sold by Black Armoury, for example. Note that there are a multitude of solutions for achieving the right weight. To start with, we recommend a shaft diameter of between 2.8cm and 3cm.
You can also add ballast to your spear (see Our tutorials), while ensuring that it looks good and is as safe as possible for other fighters.
Don't hesitate to contact us beforehand with your ideas or to pre-check your weights!
Over the years we have tried a multitude of rubber tips from different vendors. With weight restrictions now in place, blunts that are thin enough end up having a reduced lifespan. We therefore recommend the Rubber spear point sold by Faits d'Armes which, in our opinion, offers the best quality/lifetime/price ratio.
The special feature of these heavy spears is that the large size of their blade gives them the ability to strike with great force. So they can be used to carve, slash and hack!
The spears should look as realistic as possible, not like cotton buds.
The total weight of the lance must be minimum 1.3kg.
In addition to the minimum total weight, the balance point must be after half the spear and before 1/3 (tip side).
One-handed spears: same rules as for one-handed spears.
2-handed spears: same rules as two-handed spears as well as swords.
To enhance the realism of these simulators, the weapons have a high weight, which increases the risk of injury on impact.
This is why anyone wishing to use them in combat must pass an individual handling test to determine whether they are safe enough for everyone.
In order to offer a different combat experience, hast weapons are sometimes not allowed on the battlefield.
We therefore recommend that you bring a valid one-handed weapon so that you can take part in these specific battles.
For 2-handed spearmen, during large battles and certain other activities, a shield on the back or side is compulsory.
Warning! A shield carried in front of you is prohibited, as is removing it voluntarily during battle (see shield rules).
Note that there are a multitude of solutions for achieving the right weight. To start with, we recommend a shaft diameter of 3cm or more.
You can also add ballast to your spear (see Our tutorials), while ensuring that it looks good and is as safe as possible for other fighters.
Don't hesitate to contact us beforehand with your ideas or to pre-check your weights!
At present, we know of very few blunts suitable for HKEMA to materialise a heavy spear. We recommend this blunt, which you can modify using our tutorial opposite: SPETUM MK1 from Black Armory
Don't hesitate to contact us if you know of any other manufacturers who make blunts for this type of weapon!
The scramaseax, the evolved form of the saex, although simple, is nonetheless a formidable weapon. As for the sword, an emblem of wealth, it is designed for a single purpose: combat.
Only historical weapons that correspond to those authorised for our period are accepted.
Total length greater than 50cm (handle + blade), below which it is considered a knife.
In order to offer a different combat experience, hast weapons are sometimes not allowed on the battlefield.
During these specific battles, the restriction of one warrior for five for swords/langseax no longer applies, to give you easier access to one-handed weapons.
Your weapons must be in good condition and safe: no rust, no burrs, no splinters, no sharp edges or points, blunt greater than or equal to a €2 coin.
If you're just starting out and don't intend to do any re-enactment work, particularly Eastern/Western style combat, we'd advise you to opt for a weapon with a nylon blade rather than a steel one.
There are several reasons for this. Firstly, plastic/nylon blades are much cheaper and more readily available on the internet, for example.
Secondly, these blades are adapted to the practice of HEMA, which is logical given that they were designed for, where protection can be lighter than in certain other practices. In particular, they have a much thicker edge than steel swords, which widens the area of impact and is less likely to cause serious injury to your opponent.
Of the various swords we've tested, we recommend the Viking sword in nylon sold by Black Fencer. Its steel guard and pommel make it look very similar to a historical weapon, but it's also very light, and the thick nylon blade means you'll be safe in battle.

Of the various swords tested, we recommend the Norman sword in nylon sold by Black Fencer. Its steel guard and pommel make it look very similar to a historical weapon, but it's also very light, and the thick nylon blade means you'll be safe in battle.

Of the various swords we've tested, we recommend the Scramasax Large in nylon sold by Black Fencer. It looks very similar to a historical weapon and the thick nylon blade gives you safety in battle.

The seax, symbol of the free man, is both an excellent tool and a formidable weapon.
Only historical weapons that correspond to those authorised for our period are accepted.
Total length less than or equal to 50cm (handle + blade), above which it is considered a sword.

Your weapons must be in good condition and safe: no rust, no burrs, no splinters, no sharp edges or points, blunt greater than or equal to a €2 coin.
One of the essential tools at the time. It was used for work as well as for fighting, before the advent of axes designed solely for warfare.
Only historical weapons that correspond to those authorised for our period are accepted.
Total length less than or equal to 80cm, from top corner of the axe-head to bottom of handle
Your weapons must be in good condition and secure: no rust, no burrs, no splinters, no sharp edges or points.
Axes, especially handles, can be put to the test during fights. That's why we advise you to bring one or more extra handles in case of breakage.
Axe blunts need to be strong because they are subjected to powerful and repeated impacts, but they also need to be able to withstand the high stresses experienced when hooking, for example. We therefore recommend the Axe (1 hand) synthetic ARCEM sold by Black Armoury which to date offers the best resistance and durability, while having a historic look and easy assembly.

Repairing a broken
A formidable weapon, forged for combat, designed for elite warriors and feared above all else on the battlefield. These axes have colossal destructive potential, whether used against a shield, helmet or chain mail.
Only historical weapons that correspond to those authorised for our period are accepted.

The total weight of the lance must be minimum 1.4kg.
The ballast can be placed on the shaft, as close as possible to the head. It is not necessary (or even inadvisable) to place it on the blunt.
To enhance the realism of these simulators, the weapons have a high weight, which increases the risk of injury on impact.
This is why anyone wishing to use them in combat must pass an individual handling test to determine whether they are safe enough for everyone.
In order to offer a different combat experience, hast weapons are sometimes not allowed on the battlefield.
We therefore recommend that you bring a valid one-handed weapon so that you can take part in these specific battles.
For 2-handed axe-wielders, during major battles and certain other activities, a shield on the back or side is compulsory.
Warning! A shield carried in front of you is prohibited, as is removing it voluntarily during battle (see shield rules).
Note that there are a multitude of solutions for achieving the right weight while ensuring a correct overall appearance and optimum safety for the other competitors.
We have a number of tutorials to help you do just that.
Don't hesitate to contact us beforehand with your ideas or to pre-check your weights!
Axes, especially handles, can be put to the test during fights. That's why we advise you to bring one or more extra handles in case of breakage.
So far we've only found one type of blunt to simulate a large 2-handed axe, and that's a rubber head, available in black or silver. You can find one at a good price at Faits d'Armes.

The undisputed symbol of the Viking warrior. A weapon that is as offensive as it is defensive guarantees the life of its bearer, despite its thinness and apparent fragility.
It must be strapped and in good condition : leather or rawhide.
Les cerclages en tissu ne sont désormais plus autorisés !
The shield must be in good condition (not broken, no holes, no splinters, etc.).
The outside-face must be covered in fabric (linen look) or leather.
The shield must be at least 0.8cm thick.
The shield must be round and flat, with an umbo in the centre and a central handle.
Dimensions
Diameter between 70cm and 1m
The shield can be curved or flat, with no umbo and leather straps to hold it in the hand.
This type of shield is not available to this people.
The shield must be oval and curved, without an umbo, and have straps for fastening.
This type of shield is not available to this people.
The shield must be round and flat, without an umbo, and have straps for fastening.
This type of shield is not available to this people.
The shield must be round and lenticular, with an umbo in the centre and a central handle.
This type of shield is not available to this people.
Shield blows are allowed but are only valid as a hit if they are made to the head.
However, it's still a dangerous move, so be careful not to use excessive force.
For safety reasons, shield blows to the head must be vertical or at a maximum angle of 45°. Horizontal blows are now prohibited!
For 2-handed weapon carriers, during major battles and certain other activities, a shield on the back or side is compulsory.
We therefore recommend that you have a reliable and solid attachment system that allows you to carry it on your back.
Warning! A shield carried in front of you is forbidden as is voluntarily removing it during battle.
La main qui tient le bouclier doit OBLIGATOIREMENT avoir un gant qui doit respecter nos règles sur les gants !
For HEMA, we've realised as we've been practising that a lightweight shield is important so that it can be moved and handled correctly. This also means that it can be worn for longer, thereby reducing the fatigue caused.
That's why we recommend using plywood for the top, with a thickness of 0.8cm or even 1cm, which is a good compromise between weight and strength/durability. Anything thicker and the shield is often too heavy.
In terms of dimensions, we recommend a medium to small size, for greater responsiveness and manoeuvrability. 80cm, for example, is perfectly adequate.
Of course, these are just tips drawn from our own experiences. Everyone is different, with their own preferences and constraints. So you need to adapt your equipment to your requirements.
Unlike in real combat, for our practice the shield must resist impact only. So it has to be solid, especially the slices that tend to break and crumble quickly, which is dangerous for you and your opponents.
That's why we recommend using rawhide (untanned hide) for the strapping on your shield. The special thing about rawhide is that when it is wet, it becomes very malleable, which makes it easier to apply to the edges. But once it's dry again, rawhide becomes very hard and shock-resistant, increasing its longevity.
You can also double the layer of rawhide on the areas that take the most impact, but beware of the added weight.
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